IT was the 1980s and a young food entrepreneur had just arrived at the Grand Hyatt hotel, resume in hand. The job interview for banquet sales manager was about to change her life – and her interviewer’s – forever.
Fast-forward to 2012 and St Kilda restaurateur Gail Donovan and husband, Kevin, the man who hired her all those years ago, have their surname emblazoned on one of the city’s most recognisable venues – Donovans on Jacka Boulevard.
The years between have been anything but low-key. Gail, 59, has an array of accolades including Melbourne Food and Wine Festival ‘‘legend’’ for her 20 years’ involvement in the event. She was also inducted into the Port Phillip council hall of fame for her contribution to the community, and is a leader on the recently-established St Kilda Tourism Association.
After the Grand Hyatt, Donovan’s career skyrocketed when she and Kevin opened Chinois, one of Melbourne’s first Asian fusion restaurants. They then transformed a 1920s bathing pavilion into the gorgeous, home-styled and elegant Donovans.
Gail has created something unique in the dining world with Donovans. The restaurant’s decor and staff uniforms are completely transformed every six months – but always in a way to make diners feel as if they’re eating in someone’s home.
The family home in Elwood was the starting point for Gail’s career. ‘‘My mum was such a bad cook and I thought there must be something better out there. I started getting mum to buy the Women’s Weekly [for the recipes] when I was about 12.’’
After her first job at a local milk bar, Gail started working in food shops across Melbourne. But it was her experience at the Grand Hyatt, and the combining of her talents with chef husband Kevin, that took her success to new heights. ‘‘He’s my best friend; we work together every day and we never fight,’’ Gail says. ‘‘Kevin is a qualified chef, I am a streetwise cook.’’
With 65 staff – including 22 cooks and two head chefs – Donovans is a home-away-from-home for more than just its owners.
‘‘We said [when we opened] that we would serve the food that we love to eat, put our name on the door because it’s our house, and that we would always be there.’’
While building Donovans into a foodie favourite, Gail has nurtured others’ enjoyment of food in other ways. This year she is spearheading a mentor program as part of the Food and Wine Festival which will pair experienced chefs with up-and-coming foodies. Restaurants involved in the program include The Press Club, Matteo’s and Ezards.
So after all these years, what is it that keeps Donovan so passionate about food?
‘‘Eating it! I’m not exactly fading away here, I don’t wear marquees for nothing,’’ she says.
‘‘You know what’s the best thing about food? Sharing it around the table with people. If you ever think about the best food you’ve eaten and the best restaurants you’ve been to, it’s always about the people you’re with.’’
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